Youth Hotel, Hanoi

If there's one thing that makes a hotel or guest house stand apart from the rest, it's being made to feel you're special, and not 'just another customer'. And in between me staying there once at the start of my visit to Vietnam, for another few nights in the middle, again at the end and then again for another night when I couldn't get the onward flight that I wanted, the staff at the Youth Hotel's exclamation that "you're back again!" certainly made me feel a bit different from the rest.

In the heart of Hanoi's old quarter and just a five minute walk from the bus station and Hoan Kiem lake, the Youth Hotel isn't quite what the name might have you think. It's not a dingy dormitory-dominated youth hostel, though it does have 4 dorm beds. It's not full only of fresh-faced young travellers, though there's plenty of those too. Above all else, it's a friendly little hotel with great staff, a lovely restaurant and comfortable, well-appointed rooms set over 4 floors, with the steepest stairs imaginable!

The ground floor combines the reception desk, a travel agency and a restaurant serving a combination Vietnamese and western dishes from breakfast through to dinner, as well as soft and alcoholic drinks. There are three relatively fast internet terminals which are free for guests to use (there is also wireless throughout), and a cash machine is by the door, though this can be somewhat tempremental so it's best not to rely on it - you should also note the big bottle of rice wine infused with a snake, on top of the ATM.

Accommodation varies from dorm beds for $5 (£3.50) a night, through double standard rooms at $25 (£18) to superior rooms with three beds (one double, two large singles) for $35 (£25). Their web site now also advertises Deluxe City View rooms, which are slightly larger than the superior rooms and come with a desk - these are $40 (£28). You'll usually get a discount of a dollar or two if you take a room on one of the top floors, and you quickly get used to the hike up there anyway, with the added benefit of some easy exercise!

All rooms have modern bathrooms with hot water, most with power showers. All rooms are air-conditioned - though the corridors are not, and you notice the difference when you step out of your room - and most have cable TV and a mini-bar, though beware that they'll charge you for that seemingly free bottled water (it was 8,000 Dong a bottle on my visit, about 25p). All rooms come with free breakfast, and the hotel will hold luggage for you free of charge if you're going away for a while.

It's not the cheapest place out there, but it's clean, comfortable and a bit of a spot of luxury for the average backpacker - throw in unbeatable staff and you've got yourself a winner.

Book online at www.hanoiyouthhotel.com or call (+84) 04 828 5822.

33 Luong Van Can, Hanoi
sales@hanoiyouthhotel.com